This is when they roll out their menu of wild game, such as deer, wild boar, and quail. Regular customers have come to expect it. “They ask, weeks in advance, ‘When does the wild game menu start? When does it start?’ ” says James Watson, one of the restaurant’s chefs.
And the star of that menu is venison. The restaurant serves venison ribs, venison loin, even venison tartar. It’s food that takes your mind back to old European castles, where you can imagine eating like aristocracy.
You won’t see venison in ordinary supermarkets. At Wagshall’s, a specialty food shop in Washington, I found venison loin selling for $40 a pound. This venison comes from farms, usually from a species of very large deer called red deer. Much of it is imported from New Zealand.